Emeryth

I have succeeded in building a handheld hacking device with a display out of a fonera (pineapple router). In the end it's not very practical, considering you could do the same with a small laptop, but it's a lot of fun to build one. Check out my results: http://emerythacks.blogspot.com/2010/08/wifon-fonera-powered-handheld-wifi.html (old version with a monochorme character screen) http://emerythacks.blogspot.com/2011/04/wifon-20.html (newer version with a color LCD and a touchscreen) In both cases it consists of the pineapple router talking via the serial port to a microcontroller driving the display and collecting input.

To get an address via DHCP you need to use udhcpc after connecting, like this: udhcpc -i ath0

Somewhere in the web interface there is a "site survey" button, which will show you available networks and let you connect to them. Connecting manually using iwconfig also works. You're gonna have to figure out the rest of the settings by yourself, because that depends on what are you trying to achieve.

Yes it is possible to connect the fonera as a client, I've tried it. In my case to achieve routing from wifi in client mode to wired I had to turn off bridging, firewall and set up a route manually.

It's simply that some devices are stronger than others. There can be many factors during the design of such a device - cost, power consumption etc. Keep in mind that radio transmission power is regulated by the government so manufacturers can't go crazy with it.

500mA is the theoretical max, but motherboard manufacturers usually allow higher currents so people can charge their ipods faster :P Assuming your are using a modern PC with no defects in USB implementation, the worst case is that the voltage will drop due to overcurrent and the fonera will crash or restart. One other thing to keep in mind is that you should use wires thick enough for the current draw, and USB wires are usually very thin, so watch out. Refer to this: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

It's the voltage regulator. High res pictures of the board: http://www.dearhoney.idv.tw/gallery/displayimage.php?album=4&pos=1 Unfortunately the marking "7d545 1412d" does not come up with any datasheets. If you are lucky, and it's the only thing that was damaged, you can bypass the regulator entirely - find/build a 3,3V (exactly 3,3V!) power supply and apply the voltage directly to the pins near the serial port (double check the polarity this time :P).

http://events.ccc.de/camp/2011/ Is anyone coming?

I think Hamachi is the easiest solution. Get it here: https://secure.logmein.com/products/hamachi2/default.aspx

The maximum txpower is 18dBm, I use it all the time without any problems.

Yes it is possible, but it's hard to find the original firmware image, since nobody wants it ;P.

It can be done with an OpenWrt router with USB support and a USB sound card. http://mightyohm.com/blog/2008/10/building-a-wifi-radio-part-1-introduction/

But Backtrack is just like any other distro, you don't need it to hack stuff. Decide what tools you want to use and see if they can be ported to the DS.

Unfortunately there is no way, the PCI and USB buses are just too different for such a conversion to make sense.

I wanted to show off an upgrade to my "handheld WiFi pentesting device" I wrote about some time ago. It's a fonera 1.0 router with an attached color LCD touchscreen, crammed together in a 150 mm x 100 mm x 28 mm box with an external lithium battery pack. Photos: It certainly is handheld, but it doesn't do much pentesting yet, just some basic DoS attacks with mdk3 and Jasager of course :). I have finished the hardware some time ago and hoped to make more software before I release it to the Internet. Unfortunately, my main problems were lack of time (as always :P) and very limited resources of the fonera - it runs out of RAM easily and crashes a lot. So right now I'm considering doing a RAM upgrade before continuing with this project. More info and photos on my blog: http://emerythacks.blogspot.com/

All the aircrack tools work on the fonera, but it usually runs out of memory when trying to crack WEP.

You could use a Bluetooth UART module attached to the PSOC board, you can find them for as little as $10 on ebay.

If it's the top and bottom half of the screen it sounds like a problem with the backlight inverter.

The pins with black plastic are for serial and power, they are not used for the SD card mod. Here is a link that explains the procedure a bit better: http://deve.loping.net/files/fon_mmc/ Keep in mind that this SD card reader is EXTREMELY slow. I've tried it and couldn't really find a use for it. Forget about making it a web or FTP server. As for USB, it cannot be added. There was a fonera version with USB (fonera 2.0g), but it had a different processor.

You have to make sure your USB to serial cable has 3.3V output, the DB9 connector is usually used with RS-232 levels (+-12V) which could damage the router.

Make sure that you are using channel 6, because the fonera's chipset works best on that frequency (I'm talking about the FON2100 router, I don't know if anything has changed in the later models). I think there was a post about this on the fon forums, but I can't find it. According to someone's tests the signal strength was considerably lower on all other channels. I never made any serious tests, but from my experience channel 6 really is the best.

I think the heat coming from the regulator is insignificant compared to the heat from the chipset, although in theory it's about 33% of the power. But if you want to reduce the heat and power loss loss from the regulator, you can do so without removing the old one. You can use an external power supply and apply 3.3V to the pins inside the router (see articles about serial connections for the pinout). This way you bypass the regulator without having to remove it from the board, but you have to be absolutely sure you have a stable 3.3V output or you might fry your fonera. The simplest way is to attach MORE and BIGGER heatsinks to various parts of the router. :D

Check this out: http://sourceforge.net/projects/gnuitar/ The problem with software effects is that the soundcard input and the effects themselves introduce some delay.

Rumor says that it got pushed back because they are trying to make it impossible to run on hacked consoles.

If you want to program your teensy in "true" C, look up AVR-GCC tutorials online, it's the most popular AVR C compiler, used by Arduino itself. You will also need to read the datasheet for the microcontroller thoroughly, it's an invaluable source of information.