moonlit

BSoDtv.org AmateurLogic.com ...and a whole shit-ton of old shows at the IPTV Archive. That should keep you busy for a while, have fun.

Who knows, maybe all this softcore vampire stuff will make someone decide to go "you know what? how about I show you people how vampire shows are supposed to look?" and outdo everything written about vampires in the last 50 years?

Not really, just sell it or something, someone will take it off your hands.

I'm not sure what you're planning as far as wiring but I don't think what you intend to do will work. USB is a bit more complicated than your average RS232 port and needs drivers, USB controllers and other extra crap to make it do anything. If you intend to control the car via USB, you're going to need a lot more time, energy, knowledge and probably money. If, however, you just want to slice off the plugs and only use the wires in them (that is, without connecting them to a PC) to use as an extension to a wired controller, that would work. If you have one, I'd recommend using a serial port because they're much easier to program for and interface with. You can use a USB to serial adapter if you don't, sometimes you can cut these from old cell phone data cables, otherwise you can pick them up for a few bucks on Amazon. You can also use the same apps, code and tools over Bluetooth if you need it wireless, you just need a Bluetooth dongle on the PC and a Bluetooth receiver of some kind on the other. The car end can either be a Bluetooth serial port or a Bluetooth module with serial pins on it, but those can both be kinda pricey. If you can code and you feel like getting fancy, you may be able to repurpose an old cell phone that has Bluetooth, but you'd likely have to pick the phone carefully. It needs to support RFCOMM (Bluetooth serial) and it also needs some form of digital output of some sort (unless you use an analog output like a speaker, and some way to decode it on the car). Raw USB though, a couple of transistors and such won't cut it I'm afraid. You could, however, use some other device which has outputs. For example, a useful output might be a gamepad with rumble motors, if you disconnect the motors then you have a USB-capable output device which you can hijack for your own purposes. Another example might be a wireless keyboard with Caps/Num/Scroll Lock lights (not the most practical, but use what you have). You might also use IR, you can pick up IR blasters which work either over serial, USB or via a sound card output (or make your own), the downside is that you'd still need something on the car end to make sense of the pulses, and it'd only be line of sight. If the car's big enough, you could use something like an old PDA or an old laptop with wifi and some sort of serial port, as long as you can write an appropriate app for either of them to receive instructions over wifi and send them out via a port the car can interface with. There's lots of ways of doing stuff like this, it all just depends on what you know and what you have to hand. Some methods are better than others but that's half the fun, hacking together whatever makes it work. If you want to use IR or Bluetooth (or even wifi, or other wireless stuff like 315/434MHz transceivers or XBee) then you might find a cheap Arduino (or similar) quite helpful, though bear in mind that you will have to write the code for it to run on yourself.

My phone has more processing power, memory and storage than most of the computers I've owned before the last few main desktops. My netbook is a first generation eeepc with a 900MHz Celeron, 4GB SSD and half a GB, even that can run a full desktop OS without a problem. I'll keep all my stuff locally, thanks, because when my ISP takes a dump, or I'm out and about with no wifi and the 3G network is down, or when the company goes bankrupt and loses all my data, or when the servers get compromised and everything goes to hell, I still have all my own data, apps and facilities right here with me.

Copy/paste that string into a command window or the Run dialog.

Moved to more appropriate section.

I second VaKo's thoughts on why he tries various distros and then complains, and likewise his points about usability and the iPod. Being able to fix it yourself is great if 1) you have all the time in the world, 2) you're not actually trying to accomplish something. Numerous times I've decided to give Linux another crack in some project or other only to spend hours trying to make a few specific things work before I've even begun the thing I set out to do. Setting up Linux often becomes a project in itself, and that should not be the case.

No, he reported it to try and get the attention of Darren and co, not a bad thing, you haven't done anything wrong.

After a brief glance over Google, you can't unlock it yet. It uses a different method of unlock to any previous Huawei cards (being a router and not a modem like the others) and so you'll have to wait until someone comes up with something. Alternatively, contact Three.

We've known about them for many, many months, our policy is basically that they can stick around as long as they're not abused.

As far as I'm aware it's legal to own a wifi card that powerful but not legal to actually transmit at 1W (or even 50mW for that matter) unless you're licenced to do so, implying that a long as you 1) turn down the transmit power to the legal limit or 2) turn the transmitter off and just listen to whatever floats your way. However, IANAL, and my meagre legal knowledge doesn't extend very far, nothing I say constitutes legal advice and anything I do say is probably pased primarily on UK law, whether correct or otherwise, so always check with a professional.

I usually call the bloke in the paper with that big Transit...

It doesn't work quite how you suggest, though, it won't let you play your games with 16 graphics cards or 64 processors cores or whatever, it's used for tasks which can easily be broken up into chunks and sent out to other machines to be worked on. I'll give an example: Imagine for a moment that you have a lot of 3D images to render to make a movie, rendering them all on one PC would take forever, so you can send instructions for each frame (each individual image) to 100 computers and have them each do 100th of the work. Now, once they're done, you can send them all back to another machine to be assembled (piecing together multiple frames is infinitely less work than actually making them). Now you have a video in a much, much shorter time than usual. It gets harder when things have to be exactly timed as in a game, in this case it doesn't matter because as long as you send the frames back numbered then it doesn't matter if one computer finishes rendering its frame before another, the assembling computer knows where to put it, and the final product is as you expect. Now, not only do you have different computers with different workrates rendering more or less complex frames, you also have network latency, so it's quite tricky to get the frames back in the right order at the right time unless you render ahead and assemble them before they have to be shown. This is a problem with games, because you need the screen to react quickly to the button presses and a buffer zone where the frames get assembled could be unreliable if a computer takes longer than the buffer to render its frames, causing lag. I'm not an expert on this by any means, feel free to correct me, but that's how I understand it.

You have a few choices, you can either install 2 wifi cards, one in SoftAP mode (working as a makeshift access point) and another receiving the original signal, alternatively you could install a pile of wired NICs in the PIII and have a single card receiving the original signal, or you can use a single NIC fed into a router. For x86 router software I like pfSense, but I don't know what wireless support is like, so you'll have to do a little research.

I don't really find compiz to be all that useful, if anything it's too excessive for my tastes. I like a little eye candy, but jelly windows and 7-dimensional cubes just get in the way.

That's my screenshot, take it as you will.

FYI, transmit power means absolutely nothing when you're wardriving or trying to detect APs a long way away, the sensitivity is what matters then. Especially if the card is in monitor mode, nothing can be transmitted at all, it just silently listens, the transmit power is absolutely irrelevant in that case. Oh, and you should probably check your local radio laws, 1W @ 2.4GHz is probably way, way more than you're allowed without a radio licence (though if I recall, you can operate 2.4GHz at much higher wattages on even the most basic ham radio licences).

I don't know about Backtrack but I've set up a Radius server with pfSense before, I simply threw it in a VM and set up a USB wifi card to it in softap mode... I forget exactly how, since I was trying to avoid hooking the card directly to the VM itself, but it involved bridging and tweaking a lot. You could probably make it a whole lot easier by running the wifi card direct from pfSense, though a VM is easier to take down and put up.

It works on OSX, it's you which does the helping, and you don't need to sign up.

CrossLoop.

Chameleon (official site) does the same job and it's free. You may have to put a little more work into finding the correct kexts yourself, but if Psystar goes under, so does the online hardware check/driver collecting service.

You do the securing, don't rely on the OS to do it for you.

I like to make people work for the answer, especially when they suggest it might be used for something untoward. Most of the time I won't help at all, but I'm not very good at not helping, so I'll at least add some form of challenge.

Very long string. Pull tight. Neatly between two cans.