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0phoi5

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Everything posted by 0phoi5

  1. Why is the below not working correctly? It should Write-Host 'Active', but it doesn't? PS C:\Windows\system32> $(Get-ADUser JoeBloggs -Properties *).PasswordExpired False PS C:\Windows\system32> if ($(Get-ADUser JoeBloggs -Properties *).PasswordExpired -eq "False") { Write-Host "Active" } else { Write-Host "Locked" } Locked Thanks.
  2. You mentioned that line-of-sight between the buildings is not possible, due to trees. Please see the below information. http://www.digitalairwireless.com/wireless-blog/t-5ghz/non-line-of-sight-feasibility.html Dog Legging Dog legging is when both ends of the link have not got line of sight to each other, but both have line of sight to a common point. This common point can be used as an intermediate point or "dog leg". The most efficient way to use this point is to have 2 separate wireless bridges (4 radios total) as there is no loss of throughput. It is possible also to create a dog leg by having the intermediate point repeat the signal however this will half the links throughput as the central radio has to spend half its time listening to signals sent to it, and the other repeating them. Using a Lower Frequency Lower frequencies have longer wavelengths so are less prone to the effects of attenuation. A great example of this when you look at Dual band access points inside buildings. If you take a reading in the next room you will see that the 2.4GHz signal is stronger than the 5GHz (in most cases). This is because the shorter wavelength of the 5GHz signal is effected more by the walls than the 2.4GHz. For this reason, high frequency microwave links such as 60 and 80GHz require perfect line of sight, whereas 5GHz links can often punch through trees and bushes etc. If your 5GHz link is not working then a 2.4GHz may be the answer. Raise The Output Power The higher the output power, the more likely the signal is to penetrate any obstacles. You need to be careful to operate within legal limits however if you take 5GHz as an example then if operating in band B you can only output at 1W. If this is not enough then moving to operate in band C will allow you to output at 4W which may solve your problem. Physically Mount the link higher The simplest way to achieve line of site in a lot of cases is to mount your wireless equipment on the top of large poles. The pole must be properly mounted and guided down to prevent movement. Multipath is your friend In some cases it may be possible to use surrounding buildings or reflective surfaces to bounce the wireless signal around corners or obstacles. This can be a bit hit and miss and result in low data rates, but I have seen a fair number of links use this method and work fine. In short, just because you don’t have line of sight, it doesn\'t mean a link cant be achieved but until you actually survey the link using the correct hardware you are not going to know for sure. Use caution in situations where the environment can change. For example if you have a link that goes through trees and works well during the winter, that same link may not work during the summer when the trees are in bloom!
  3. 5000ft of buried Ethernet cable is a bit too far. I'd go for a Bridged Wi-Fi solution (as mentioned by digip, use directional antennas on top of each building, pointing at each other). Then yes, they can definitely communicate over Wi-Fi without external internet being available. You'd have to set up a router on each end.
  4. Reminds me of Uni. Me and my flatmate next door found that the Uni internet was too slow for our gaming purposes, so we drilled a small hole in the wall and simply ran Ethernet between us. Went from 200+ ms PING to about 4ms PING. Unfortunately, I spent more time at Uni playing games than actual work. Damn that cable.
  5. I am uncertain what your requirements are exactly, but I think the PowerShell linked above would do fine. Plug in Bunny Call PowerShell script - https://gist.github.com/guitarrapc/9870497 That PowerShell script takes a screenshot every # seconds and saves it to the Bunny / wherever Leave it running. Come back later and retrieve Bunny and screenshots. Profit. Not a machine that would recognise PowerShell? Just use another language. I think you're potentially over complicating things.
  6. PowerShell, baby. [Reflection.Assembly]::LoadWithPartialName("System.Drawing") function screenshot([Drawing.Rectangle]$bounds, $path) { $bmp = New-Object Drawing.Bitmap $bounds.width, $bounds.height $graphics = [Drawing.Graphics]::FromImage($bmp) $graphics.CopyFromScreen($bounds.Location, [Drawing.Point]::Empty, $bounds.size) $bmp.Save($path) $graphics.Dispose() $bmp.Dispose() } $bounds = [Drawing.Rectangle]::FromLTRB(0, 0, 1000, 900) screenshot $bounds "C:\screenshot.png" https://stackoverflow.com/questions/2969321/how-can-i-do-a-screen-capture-in-windows-powershell *Edit* This one is quite nice too - https://gist.github.com/guitarrapc/9870497
  7. My personal fuel is always chocolate milk and pop tarts. I could pen test for days with a good stock of those
  8. Back in my teen years, Wing Commander Prophecy was absolutely brilliant.
  9. https://www.wired.com/2003/07/slammer/ I know Slammer is a few years back now, and some of you are probably already aware of it, but can we all just take a moment to appreciate how beautiful it really was? About half way down the page above is Slammer's simple code (starting at 'step one'). Slammer; Fit inside 1 UDP package at less than 376 bytes. DoS'd about 75,000 SQL Servers and affected millions of machines in less than 15 minutes. Chose victims at random, at hundreds of IP attempts per second per machine, so no one was safe. I don't think they ever even found out who did it? (citation needed) I think I need some time alone with a box of tissues.
  10. Hi all, I was playing with hoover.pl last night, which works great, apart from when it gets to line 108; (system("$iwconfigPath $interface mode monitor")) && die "Cannot set interface $interface in monitoring mode!\n"; It returns the above die error, with the reason given being; Error for wireless request "Set Mode" (8B06) : SET failed on device wlan1 ; Device or resource busy. I am using a RPi3 with an Alfa Wi-Fi card connected to one USB port. The internal Wi-Fi chip is wlan0 and the external Alfa card is wlan1. I have the internal chip wlan0 connected to my home Wi-Fi, as intended, so that I can SSH to the RPi. However, I believe the issue above is stemming from the fact that, when I run iwconfig, both wlan0 and wlan1 are showing as being connected to my home Wi-Fi. I don't want this; I would like wlan0 to connect to my home Wi-Fi, but wlan1 to stay available to use in monitor mode. I have tried; iwconfig wlan1 down iwconfig wlan1 mode monitor (and/or) airmon-ng start wlan1 iwconfig wlan1 up No luck; wlan1 still insists on reconnecting to my home Wi-Fi and setting itself back to Managed mode. How can I stop wlan1 (Alfa card) connecting to my home Wi-Fi, but leave wlan0 (RPi3 internal) connected to it? Thank you.
  11. Taffer is a word used in the game, in place of curse words generally. "Come back here you Taffer!"
  12. Yes, I'm currently playing Thief 2 through again on Windows 10, using the disc I purchased over 10 years ago. Just completed 'Kidnap' and now on to 'Casing The Joint'. Install the game using the disc, then install TafferPatch. Instructions are on that forum post, as well as the links to download (just use the Google Drive link). TafferPatch makes the game run correctly on new systems, fixes bugs the game developers missed, adds new lighting, graphics and textures, etc.
  13. 0phoi5

    Crunch

    Seems I need to do some reading up! Cheers.
  14. Once you have them, don't forget to patch them too There's the 'tafferpatch' now that makes the resolution much higher, improves graphics/textures and fixes a few bugs from the original games. Well worth installing.
  15. 0phoi5

    Crunch

    I wouldn't use Crunch any more; creating either rainbow tables or files with passwords stored in them is a bit deprecated nowadays. Use Hashcat with masks.
  16. Doesn't sound like airmon has set monitor mode successfully. If this was the case, the interface would usually show as mon0 or wlan0mon. Could you post your full command list and output?
  17. Could you run the following, and post your full output here please? iwconfig airmon-ng check kill airmon-ng start [INTERFACE] iwconfig
  18. All 4 of the Thief games are available on Steam. The first 2 are by far the best (Dark Project / Metal Age). I think they are a few pounds/dollars each, not much. You can also find them on Amazon.
  19. What output do you get if you run 'iwconfig'? Have you used airmon to place your card in monitor mode? Are you using an external WiFi card (I don't believe the internal WiFi on the RPi3 supports monitor mode)? Have you extensively read through the instructions on the aircrack website?
  20. Thank you for this, I didn't get a chance to play over the weekend (too much DIY to do around the house!). Much appreciated, and good info :)
  21. Thief is a PC game. Not sure if it was ever ported to any other platforms, but it was definitely designed for PC originally. Completed 'Life of the Party' last night. God, I love that mission.
  22. Hi all, Any other players of Thief 1 (Dark Project) and Thief 2 (Metal Age)? I'm playing them both through for the third time in my life now. My God, what amazing games, even over 10 years later! I haven't yet played Thief 2X or any Fan Missions, going to give those a good go after completing The Metal Age again. My favourite games of all time, by far.
  23. Thanks. I'm looking to not have the wireless on at all, until I require it. At the moment, the Alfa external Wi-Fi card comes on as the Raspberry Pi boots up, and stays on until it shuts down. I don't use the Wi-Fi card all of the time, so rather than a 'low-power' mode when it's not in use, I'd like to literally just switch it off / supply it no power at all. Basically, the equivalent of unplugging the Wi-Fi card from the USB slot, but without having to physically unplug it. To give a better overview; This is for a home automation project where the Raspberry Pi will be switched on pretty much all of the time, but I don't want the external Wi-Fi antenna to be kicking out a signal all of the time, as it's a quite high powered antenna and I'd rather not sit in the radiation 24/7, no matter how small. For peace of mind, I'd rather just switch it off when not in use. Plus it also does use a battery back up, and if it's in this mode, the battery will be drained pretty quickly.
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