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Its a little larger than what I used, you could cut it pretty easily with a hacksaw and file it smooth. Mine is a little larger than the chip itself. The only problem with a larger heat sink mounted directly to the chip is if you get careless and drop your router the shock will stress the solder points which were not designed for that much weight. Mine is 20 x 20 x 8 mm. I actually made it from another heatsink, like the one in the auction. I would recommend **not** using the self adhesive tape on that one, best to clean the surface, and use the thermal epoxy. The tape requires too much pressure to "seat", you risk breaking a solder joint, the epoxy does not require much pressure to seat, and will fill in any small voids and provide better thermal transfer.

To the best of my knowledge you can't use TFTP over serial. I used an app like hyperterminal (included with winxp) or TeraTerm. But I think PuTTY has a serial send option. too. But I have not actually used it for that. Once you get to the Redboot prompt, then prepare the router to receive them, using ymodem protocol: RedBoot> load -r -m ymodem -b %{FREEMEMLO} openwrt-atheros-vmlinux.lzma And initiate a ymodem send on your terminal app. Until you initiate the send nothing will transfer. (same for the rootfs file) (full instructions are in the MK3 flashing guide elsewhere on the forum) If you are flashing an original fon2100 with the 16mb of RAM you probably will not be happy, the new firmware is too much for the memory available. Sebkinne said elsewhere he was running a lean version of the fw which worked on the 2100's.

Just a FYI, I was playing with a newly arrived OM1P (same board as the AP51) and noticed this in Redboot: RedBoot> bdshow name: MR3201P-FLF-38NQ magic: 35333131 cksum: 5a13 rev: 5 major: 1 minor: 0 pciid: 0013 wlan0: yes 00:12:cf:d6:20:17 wlan1: no ff:ff:ff:ff:ff:ff enet0: yes 00:12:cf:d6:20:16 enet1: no ff:ff:ff:ff:ff:ff localbus: no ff:ff:ff:ff:ff:ff PCI: no ff:ff:ff:ff:ff:ff uart0: yes sysled: yes, gpio 2 factory: yes, gpio 6 serclk: internal cpufreq: configured 184000000 Hz sysfreq: configured 92000000 Hz memcap: disabled watchdg: disabled (WARNING: for debugging only!) serialNo: RedBoot> RedBoot> version RedBoot(tm) bootstrap and debug environment [ROMRAM] Accton release, version v1.5.1 - built 20:10:40, Aug 19 2008 Copyright (C) 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 Red Hat, Inc. Board: ap51 RAM: 0x80000000-0x82000000, [0x8003f640-0x80fe1000] available FLASH: 0xa8000000 - 0xa87f0000, 128 blocks of 0x00010000 bytes each. RedBoot> Apparently the watchdog can be disabled, mine was when I bought it, probably is by default in the Alfa ap51's. Curious on why this OM1P had it disabled, but pleasantly surprised. These Redboot commands were run before flashing, but I think the setting is stored in NVRAM anyway.

Yes thats the Atheros 2315A. I just flashed mine with the new fw and still was pretty hot even with the heatsink directly mounted. I think I am going to mount a fan. Mr. Protocol, that chip gets pretty hot, I think the foam tape is really acting more as an insulator and does not conduct much heat away to the shield for a fan to cool. (just my .02) Of course longevity may not be a concern with (hopefully) a u-boot firmware for the OM2P.

I agree, the older fons and the newer OM1P/Ap51 use the same AR2315 system on chip wifi. They do run hot. The metal shield can be *carefully* pried off, it snaps in to a rectangular foot piece which is soldered to the board. You will find a small piece of foam tape, between the chip and the metal RF shield, about 1/16 inch thick which is supposed to conduct heat from the chip to the metal shield. Very poor design, but I suppose that's why they are inexpensive. The early foneras were worse, there was a foam tape between the chip and the RF shield and *another* foam tape between the RF shield and heatsink. But at least there was a heat sink. I made a heat sink (similar to the one on the early foneras) and used some Arctic Silver thermal epoxy to mount it directly on the chip. If you are *careful* you can cut an opening exactly the same size as your heatsink in the metal RF shield and snap the shield back into place. See attached photo. It still runs warm, I am thinking about adding a small 12v fan but that might be overkill.

I took a chance and ordered an OM2P, I am familiar with Redboot from the Fons/AP51/OM1P however can anyone point me to info on flashing it or other routers using U-Boot? +2 on awaiting a U-boot image for MK3, or info on how to compile one, if possible from the MK3 .squashfs and .lzma? Thanks, Seb for all the work you do.

EDIT: The ddrt wiki ascii diagram might be wrong, the open mesh wiki shows a different layout. Sorry for any confusion. I'm going to connect and test, and correct the diagram. EDIT: If anyone still cares, the pinout for the OM1p (confirmed working) is: With the ethernet jack in front of you, the pinout should look like this: +---+ |GND| +---+ |TXD| +---+ |RXD| +---+ |VCC| +---+ +-----+ +-----+ +---+ |Power| | LAN | |Ant| Thanks for the photo of the pins but the pinouts are missing: Looking inside, with the connectors at your left hand (see attachment). Note in the photo in the above post, the board edge is the edge nearest to you, in my clip the same board edge is away from you. thanks ddwrt wiki The AP51, and Open Mesh OM1P are the same board.

You will find the older fons and MR3201a have 16mb of RAM, the newer Open Mesh and AP51's are 32mb, makes a world of difference. For fun I also flashed my older fon, very little free memory with the mark3 firmware running, even less when Karma is enabled, very sluggish. Have fun.