csystem

If Boosted240 decides not to buy yours PM me. Why are you frustrated with it? Check your PM.

This brings up a question, is there an alternative location to obtain the modules?

Do you have a USB to TTL converter? If you can get to the U-boot bootloader from a serial console maybe a re-flash (manual) would fix it. There is lots of info here, but it is really easy. Word of caution, make sure your TTL converter operates at 3.3v, not 5v. Don't ask me how I know!!

Go HERE

If for some reason (bad flash or a corrupt firmware bin file) you can't access the router through ethernet (bricking) you can use the four pins located on the PCB to establish a serial connection and look at the initial bootloader (u-boot) and manually flash a new firmware and configure other settings. Just make sure the converter you use/buy is 3.3 volts VCC and not 5.

That works, thanks, I did not think a http auth was affected by the passwd command.

Greetings: Been playing around with the MK4 fw and am able to ssh into the pineapple and using "passwd" can change the root pw for ssh logins as usual. But since the web UI is not being served over SSH, passwd has no effect on the UI password. Where is the config file where the web UI password is written? Thanks!

Thanks for the info and the links!!! I guess I'll have to buy a t-shirt. :-))

OK, will you allow me a rebuttal? I agree, OSS should always be free. However seems obvious to me the new firmware Mk4 release is being delayed, at least to non-paying customers (who do not buy the retail package which is released presently). Understandably, the hard facts are the forum servers and Darren and company have significant expense in their operation. However a purely pay for download would indeed be chilling and I do not support that. So if a membership program were in effect it would allow access to the latest project code, which would still be made available freely later to everyone, but those who desire to contribute would get access first. You could still join the forum for free. Maybe a donor avatar like someone suggested. If the software gets passed around, well, thats how OSS should be. I am trying to suggest a way for the DIYers here to contribute something toward the expenses here. Or maybe a way to just donate would be fine. Thanks!

Greetings all: This very subject has also been on my mind. I am an ardent DIYer and have built two pineapples to date. The hardware for the MK4 **is** available if you know where to look, and I don't want to undercut any of the hard work of the devs and the hakshop by posting details. Yes I am going to build a MK4 from an OM2P (not the same HW as the MK4) when the fw becomes available but I will have to wait until that time. Darren and the devs have put in a lot of work and should be compensated for their work, I agree. But here's my dilemma: Buying at retail a fully plug and play unit has no interest to me. Part of the learning and fun is to DIY. That being said, might I make a suggestion?? I would suggest, Darren that you offer "memberships" to this forum, the benefit to joining is to contribute to hosting, show costs, and hopefully a portion could go to the devs. And members would get access to download the latest firmware releases for the projects hosted on this forum. I would gladly pay for such a membership, or just make a "donation". That way the DIYers would still pay their fair share toward the costs of running this forum and the production of the (fun) show. Just my 02. Thanks Darren, Seb, Robin and anyone else I forgot to mention!

M1k: The TP link 703 is a similar board as the Hornet, 32mb ram 4 mb flash. Did you have any luck swapping out the flash chip, which one did you use for the 8 mb? Thanks!

To flash over serial this works (see section 5) HERE But you will need a pinout diagram: +---+ |GND| +---+ |TXD| +---+ |RXD| +---+ |VCC| +---+ +-----+ +-----+ +---+ |Power| | LAN | |Ant| Note when you issue the transfer command when logged into Redboot you will still have to initiate the ymodem transfer on your terminal program, its not automatic like when using an IP based transfer. Because your USB/serial adapter requires drivers some of them do not work well for serial transfers. If your chip is FTDI it should work. Or find a vintage PC with a serial port. Good luck

If your project would work with an older version (fon with 16mb ram, 8 mb flash) I have it flashed with Mk3. Works for karma and MITM, but can't run URLsnarf because of the smaller RAM. Heatsink mod and fan installed. Mint condition (except for the mods). 25.00 shipped priority mail. Photos if interested.

Some info..mostly a photo... on the MK4 HERE

Seb will be testing soon for OM2P. (802.11n) Different SoC, 7240 I think, also uses U-boot instead of Redboot. I was not referring to the current 2.01.

If you can't flash with the gui app or using refboot.pl and tftp, you will have to re-flash using a serial connection and ymodem. How did you flash before you had the problem? After you reboot the pineapple, can you ssh into it? You may be better off with reflashing. good luck

Mr Protocol is correct however I know the actual temp of the 2315 chip is higher still, unless you add a heatsink. The foam tape the mfr placed on the chip below the RF shield to conduct heat is very inadequate, imho. Then again, with the new firmware for the 7240 routers (om2p) coming???? its not all a big issue.

check your email

OK, if the karma SSID and the non-karma SSID are the same here (yes I should have read the notes :-() here's my question: I edited the ssid in the wireless config non-karma mode editing window (named it FreeWifi,) clicked the "update wireless" and the SSID indeed changes in normal mode, after a reset. I then enabled Karma on the pineapple, and disabled my normal access point, (unsecured, SSID is homewifi) and set my phone to connect to "homewifi" which was in my wireless access point list. Yes, the phone connected to "homewifi" . As the pineapple was then the only access point in range, I know for sure Karma was working. However whatever SSID I enter into the box on the "change Karma SSID" field does not seem to do anything. I have tried connecting with an old iphone which has never seen the pineapple, it finds the SSID name entered in the "wireless config" editing window regardless. But Karma is working as any SSID I enter into a wireless config on any device will connect to the pineapple, regardless of the actual SSID. So what's the purpose of the "change karma SSID" button? If karma and the normal wireless SSID can be changed using the editing window and the SSID's are always the same, then the button seems unnecessary. Where or what config file is it supposed to change? Thanks!

I don't know if this may help, I am having the same problems changing the ESSID through the web interface. V. 2.01, OM1p. I looked at the /etc/hostapd/karma.conf, it was **missing**, I found a karma.conf.old, renamed it back to karma.conf, manually edited the ESSID, reset, and all is fine now. Possibly the web UI is not writing the new file? I was using Firefox on BT5R1 when I tried changing the ESSID, btw. Anyone else have a missing karma.conf after making the change?

Big improvement in temps. If you cut the RF shield carefully, it will still make contact with the heatsink, effectively making it part of the RF shield. Sure, its probably not foolproof and I'm not too concerned with leakage. If you remove it entirely I'm sure your TX output would be reduced, but have no actual measurements to go by.

The RF shield top cover snaps off, I used a small dull screwdriver....carefully...very little force was needed. I flashed MK3 after mounting the heat sink, I ran Karma and URL snarf using my phones wifi as the "victim", no heavy traffic or MITM, maybe 20 minutes in total, without a fan, cover on, no air circulation, even with the heat sink the temp was around 140 def F, measured with a IR thermometer, they can be inaccurate on bright surfaces like aluminum. If there was no heat sink or the just stock foam tape and RF shield who knows what temp the chip was at. I SSHed into the router and CPU load averages were low, can't remember numbers but will edit this later with more info on that.

FWIW, I decided to use a 12 v 25mm fan. Its a bit noisy on 12v however still works OK at 5 v. Of course in a noisy environment, who cares? There was not enough room to mount the fan fully inside the case because of the heatsink, so I cut a hole in the top cover the same size of the outside of the fan. Epoxy on the inside and white silicone to secure the fan. I could have mounted the fan entirely on the top, that would have been easier but the full height of the fan would stick out. I attached the power leads to the solder pads on the barrel plug jack on the pcb.

Mr-Protocol, have a look HERE Telot says the tx output difference is negligible. According to the spec sheet on Data Alliance's webpage, the DC input should be 6 to 12v.

If you plan on using a USB to barrel adapter that is only 5vdc and you should get a 5v fan. On my older fon the power supply was also 5 volts and I soldered the fan wires to the same pads the power jack was soldered to. I had hoped the newer AP51/OM1p would run cooler as they use a 12v power supply (less amperage, I thought) but the heating seems to be a problem with the Atheros 2315 chip. So if you want to run on the 12v power supply I would get a 12 volt fan. Or put in a 12 volt fan anyway and it would run slower on 5 volts...but maybe OK since you also have a heat sink so you have the option to run off of USB or the 12v wall wart. Thanks mreidiv for the link, they also have 12 v fans in the same size HERE I have not tested the RF output of the router when on USB, if your USB is per spec its only 500mA. If you really wanted to you could wire two male USB "A" in parallel and make a cord. I have seen some external HDD USB cords wired that way. However your PC would have to supply 500mA independently to both USB ports for this to work, and you are still only getting 5 Volts. This link USB explains the pinouts nicely, you would need to use pins 1 and 4 wired to the barrel plug, pin 1 in the barrel center. Someone else here used the newer AP51's on USB and said it worked OK. Has anyone noticed a difference in RF? I am sure there is a voltage regulator on the board which drops the 12 v to something lower, and that is why the 5 v seems to work. I would recommend soldering the fan wires to the dc input jack pads **before** the voltage regulator, due to possible noise issues. I would suggest opening a small hole in the top cover and mounting the fan to the cover beneath, **not** to the heat sink, so it blows air directly on the heat sink. I am sure the solder pads on the chip were not designed for that much weight or stress caused by screwing a fan into a heat sink. Just my .02