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RChadwick

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Posts posted by RChadwick

  1. I added 3 small heatsinks too, as well as adding a 47uF cap across +5v to help compensate for bad power. Don't really know if the heatsinks were needed (IR camera only showed under 110 degrees idle), but it was worth it to me for peace of mind. Still have issues, but they don't seem hardware-related.

  2. This is definitely a hardware issue. In most cases, it's not a matter of more 'power'. All USB devices are designed to run from 5V. Some might happen to work at less. If you're lucky, it might work. However, you could buy 100 USB drives from the same manufacturer, and 60 might work fine at a lower voltage, 30 might work sometimes, and 10 might not work at all. From an Electronic point of view, picking a drive that works is a real half-ass solution that may stop working at any time. So, USB drives expect a full 5V. The problem is that the Pineapple will not be able to supply a full 5V to USB drives unless if it's getting at least 7-8V in. If you power the Pineapple from a USB port, it's getting 5.5V at MOST. If you do this, your USB Flash drives are running on 3 or 4 volts, and as low as that is, it will fluctuate under load, temperature, etc. That means that, even if it works today, it can corrupt data under load, or reset the device.It's a problem waiting to happen.

    The solution? If you want your Pineapple to actually work with USB drives or other USB devices in any kind of consistent way:

    1) Run the Pineapple from 7-12V

    2) Run the Pineapple from 5V, but use a powered USB Hub for any devices plugged into the Pineapple.

    Firmware is not a fix. Picking the right USB drive is not a real fix (Even if it seems like it works)

  3. Also, the purpose of the hub is to make sure a full 5V gets to USB devices plugged into the Pineapple, so you'd want to plug the hub into the Pineapple, not the Pineapple into the hub. When the hub is plugged into the Pineapple, then plug your USB drives into the hub. Or, just power the Pineapple with 12V.

  4. Just a few observations....

    1) It would be fair to say that a Pineapple is not in the same class as an IPhone. An IPhone is a consumer product. If my overpriced IPhone doesn't work properly, I'll politely complain, and expect a solution. A pineapple is more specialized, requires some skill to use, and is not for everybody.

    2) While you may have paid for the hardware, the software is a separate, open source product.

    3) It's nice and generous thing that some people are willing to help people for free with open source software.

    4) Constantly saying a 'Product' is bad, defective, etc. , more than actually trying to find a solution yourself, is likely not the smartest way to encourage people to help you.

    There may be situations where acting like a bully is required, and might get results. This doesn't seem like one of those situations.

    Just my 2 cents.

  5. I don't have much experience with the Cruzer Fit on the Pineapple, but I use it a lot on a Bootable Linux format. My experience is that it works fine for a while, then it 'disconnects' and can't be read until I power down and up again. Over time, the disconnecting happens sooner and sooner. New drives do the same thing. Maybe I have really bad luck, or maybe Sandisk has a lot of issues. I looked into other flush fit drives, and oddly enough the Sandisk seem the most reliable by far. I think I'll try a flush-fit MicroSD card reader...

  6. The lower current might be an issue as well, but I can definitely say the voltage is an issue. Even if you powered the MKIV with a 5V 2A power supply, the internal voltage regulator doesn't have enough voltage to work with, and the MKIV USB port will only output around 3.5v-4.5v. USB devices expect 5v. Some might happen to work at a lower voltage, but I'd say that's just luck.

    As for POE, I'd be careful. I've seen a bunch of proprietary voltages and connections, but most are in the 24V-48V range. I haven't tried it personally, but I thought I read on here that anything over 12V has the chance to smoke your MKIV. If you use a 12V POE injector, I imagine it would work, assuming it's actually wired for POE.

  7. I've done this a while ago. I really haven't had time to test it out (Haven't powered up my Pineapple in months), so I don't know how well it works in practice, but devices are recognized in both ports without problems. I replaced the single USB port with a double-high USB port, and extended the hole in the case. The hard part was to work the hub around the light pipes for the LED's. I bought a cheap, small hub on Ebay, took it apart, and cut the PCB down to the bare minimum. Everything fits on the back of the double USB connector.

    For portable power, I grabbed a cheap DC-DC converter PCB from Ebay. Some are adjustable, and can easily convert 5V (Or even the 3.6V directly from a pack of salvaged Li-Ion cells) up to 8V. Something like this:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2577S-DC-DC-4-35V-Adjustable-Step-up-Power-Supply-Non-isolated-Boost-Module-3A-/121053536136

    Of course, basic soldering skills are required.

  8. I could be wrong, but I've seen this in Backtrack. When it happens, it's only on specific AP's. I'm guessing it might either be a bug in Reaver, or some routers have a bug that doesn't tell Reaver the correct PIN was found. Just a guess. Maybe try deleting Reaver's save data, and see if it gets stuck at the same point.?

  9. I wouldn't be quick to blame Hak5 too harshly. They didn't design or build the hardware. However, with all the failures, it might be prudent for them to buy a bunch of pigtails (Dirt cheap in quantity I'm sure), and add one in the package, just in case there is a future problem. Sending the whole unit back just for the pigtail seems like a waste, considering it's pretty easy to replace. Hackers tend to be comfortable with such things. :)

  10. This is a known issue, which I thought was talked to death. If you send in only 5V into your Pineapple, you will get 3 or 4 volts out on the USB port. USB devices expect 5V, so this configuration either won't work, will work unreliably, or might work, but you're asking for trouble.The Pineapple really needs at least 7V in for the USB port to supply a reliable 5V.

    If someone is Electronically inclined, modifying the Pineapple would be easy. Simply disabling and bypassing the internal 5V regulator would allow the Pineapple to run permanently on 5V input, and supply a solid 5V to USB devices. The downside is that, if you plug your modified Pineapple into something other than 5V, you're likely to smoke something.

  11. This was actually discussed before. I don't know if I'd call it a design 'Flaw', but if you put in only 5 volts (Like from the USB cable), you won't get a full 5V out on the USB port. Some USB devices can run on less, and some can't. The Jasager's USB port has a regulator on it (So if you run it off 12 volts, you don't smoke your USB devices with 12V!), but that regulator needs a volt or so to work, so if you put in 5V, you won't ever get a full usable 5V out on the USB port.

  12. I can confirm I had this issue as well. Horrible signal. I replaced the pigtail with a new one I happened to have around, and the signal was fine. Also, while I was changing the pigtail, the cable actually pulled out of the SMA connector. Maybe a bad batch? Fortunately, they're cheap on ebay, and easy to replace.

  13. Thanks for the replies. I wanted to test the usb ports/hub/devices before moving on, and scratching my head over mysterious symptoms. I was hoping to find something that can test over and over, revealing any errors, but I'll give these a try. Thanks again.

  14. I just took measurements to confirm this. If you want to reliably use your MK4 Wifi Pineapple with something plugged into the MK4 USB port, you need to power it with 7 to 15 volts. If you're not using the USB port, you can get by powering the MK4 with 5 volts from a USB port.

    The reason is because the hardware uses two separate regulators. One lowers the input to 3.3v the wireless hardware uses, and the other lowers the input to 5V for the USB port. Problem is, these regulators need a volt or two to work. So, if you expect to get 5V out, you need to put more than 5V in. For those interested, here were the results of my quick measurements:

    With 5V input, the USB output voltage varied between 3.90V and 4.10V, with no load

    With 5.5V input, the USB output voltage was 4.6V, with no load

    With 6V input, the USB output voltage was 5.03V, with no load

    I didn't plug anything into the USB port (A load), and suspect these voltages will go even lower with a load.

    Depending on the USB device you use, it might work with a 5V input, but don't expect it to be reliable.

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