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Everything posted by aloishis89

  1. Me and 2 of my friends have been working on a large web rover based off of a kids PowerWheels car. We aren't completely done, but it is drivable from anywhere in the world right now. It still has a couple bugs to get worked out. I had wanted to build a web rover before, but it was always too much money. The major design feature of this rover is as low cost as possible. Hopefully this will help other people who want to do the same. Because of the scale, we had to use different electronics and code which is all documented on the site I built for it. You can find that below. I would appreciate any feedback on the project and any suggestions for fixing the last couple bugs or ideas for a better UI for driving it (right now its just PHP buttons like the one Darren did). Sorry for the crappy website, but I'm still working on my web designing. site: http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~hscott7/rover/
  2. So should buttonpress.php should use a $_REQUEST to get the POST from the code you wrote? And then I will have the variable that contains the button that was pressed? I actually wanted to implement this so that the page would detect keys on the keyboard being pressed, and I think if I replaced the button form on your page with the javascript I posted earlier to do that, then it should work. What do you think?
  3. Thanks, I managed to get that working. I would like to be able to control the rover with keystrokes though. So far, I have been able to detect the keystrokes with javascript and have the javascript send a popup telling the key that was pressed. I don't know AJAX and I am beginning to learn PHP and Javascript to get this thing working. I was wondering if someone could help me integrate the PHP and Javascript so that PHP can look at the variable javascript has (that has the key pressed in it) and then do stuff based on that. I think it may involve using GET or POST, but I'm not sure. I would prefer to keep from having the page reload each time a key was pressed. Here is what I have so far: <?php $verz="0.0.2"; $comPort = "/dev/ttyUSB0"; /*change to correct com port */ if (isset($_POST["rcmd"])) { $rcmd = $_POST["rcmd"]; switch ($rcmd) { case Stop: $fp =fopen($comPort, "w"); fwrite($fp, 1); /* this is the number that it will write */ fclose($fp); break; case Go: $fp =fopen($comPort, "w"); fwrite($fp, 2); /* this is the number that it will write */ fclose($fp); break; default: die('???'); } } ?> <html> <body> <script type="text/javascript"> function displayunicode(e){ var unicode=e.keyCode? e.keyCode : e.charCode switch(unicode){ case 38: alert("up arrow"); //window.location.href = "http://localhost/rover/simpler version.php?key=" + unicode; break; case 40: alert("down arrow"); //window.location.href = "http://localhost/rover/simpler version.php?key=" + unicode; break; case 39: alert("right arrow"); //window.location.href = "http://localhost/rover/simpler version.php?key=" + unicode; break; case 37: alert("left arrow"); //window.location.href = "http://localhost/rover/simpler version.php?key=" + unicode; break; } } </script> <form> <input type="text" size="30" maxlength="1" onkeyup="displayunicode(event); this.select()" value="Click here, then press a key"/> </form> <center><h1>Barbie Rover Control</h1><b>Version <?php echo $verz; ?></b></center> <form method="post" action="<?php echo $PHP_SELF;?>"> <table border="0"> <tr> <td></td> <td> </td> <td></td> </tr> <tr> <td> <input type="submit" value="Stop" name="rcmd"><br/> </td> <td></td> <td> <input type="submit" value="Go" name="rcmd"><br /> </td> </tr> <tr> <td></td> <td><br><br><br><br><br> </td> <td></td> </tr> </table> </form> </body> </html> I would really appreciate any help!
  4. I am working on my own version of the web rover, and I am trying to figure out a way to talk to the serial port from online. I have looked into php, but I haven't been able to get it to work. I am also looking at using cgi or python. I would prefer to use php, because it's a little easier for me. Is anyone willing to write a little sample code that will let me send an ascii character to a com port?
  5. I am working on my own version of the r/c linux web controlled car that was done in I think episode 502. I am trying to decide which controller to use. I don't want to use a phidget because it is only a relay, and I want to be able to control the speed. Here are the controllers I am considering: MAKE controller ActiveWire ioBridge Arduino Arduino is the cheapest one, and if I used it, I thought I would modify Darren's C code and make it take arguments, so there is only 1 program that does everything. The only problem is that I would then need a webserver to keep the thing online, as opposed to the ioBridge. I would really appreciate any suggestions people have on which one to use, or any other ones that I don't know about that would be better. Thanks.
  6. In case you didn't know, Johnny Long, who has been on the show before, is moving to Uganda to do missionary work. He is selling most of his stuff to raise money to get over there, so go buy some of it: http://hackersforcharity.org/117/fundraiser-auction/ There is some really cool stuff and its great place for people who are new to hacking/pen testing to start. It takes a lot of guts to leave everything and do what you feel is right. If you can spare a few bucks, help him out.
  7. I have some major plans for a larger version of the hak5 rover. Construction will begin in 2 weeks, after my finals are over. Suffice to say it will be truly a thing to behold. I'll post pictures as the build progresses.
  8. yea, the easiest thing to do would be to edit the hosts file in windows, which basically tells windows that whenever someone types in cnn.com, instead of looking up what IP that is and going to it, it will go where you tell it. This could be a freewebs account with just copied and pasted html from their front page. Remember to copy all of the images over as well. Be careful with this kind of thing, because a morally challenged person would realize that this is phishing and doing the same steps for, say, a gmail login would be trivial.
  9. In the past, I had it doing Folding@home for a little while and I planned on using it for hash cracking. It isn't running right now because I have no place for it to live. After I first built it, I left it on 24/7 in my room and when I would wake up in the morning, the room was at least 10 degrees hotter than when I went to bed. Plus having that many fans running gets kinda loud. Anyway, I mostly use it for experimenting with clustering, networking, and pen testing.
  10. I built my own cluster last year using Cluster Knoppix. It has I think 9 nodes right now with several more on the way. Because my budget was $0, I used any computer I could get. This ranged from a crappy old box with like a 900MHz proc in it all the way up to a server with dual 2.4GHz intel Xeons and 4 gigs of ram. Of course, the balance of this thing is not great at all, as the more powerful machines take most of the load, but the main purpose of the project was to get the thing running and distributing the load across all the machines. It is all very experimental. I know there were some people here wanting to build their own. I suggest you go for it, its really cool and I learned a ton. Here is what it looked like while I was still working on it (before it was tidy): That picture always makes me laugh.
  11. I disconnected R6 and tried it on another computer, but still nothing. The resistors I am using are 10K ohms, which I am pretty sure are the ones you used in your picture. Did you do the math and pick 10K ohms on purpose, or would it me safe for me to go lower? edit: I looked over the schematic carefully and I do not understand why 5v is not getting to the owl. I also looked at the data sheet for the transistors and it made me wonder if one of the reasons the owl isn't getting the full 5v in your case is that the transistors absorb some current. I have lowered the values of some resistors in the circuit and I still couldn't get the head to move. I didn't lower them a lot, I changed the 10K ohm resistor that was between the NPN emitter and the PNP base to 8K ohms and the 10K ohm between the NPN emitter and the PNP emitter to 4.7K ohm (does this resistor even need to be there?). I was afraid to lower them any more. It doesn't make sense because I built the exact same thing you did! Let me know of any ideas you have of things to try.
  12. Well, I got all of the parts in today and put it all together. When I tested it, it had a problem though. When a new email is received, it blinks, but it does not have enough power to move its head. I checked all of my connections and everything seems good. When I put my hand on it, I can feel the motor trying to move, but it seems like it is starved for power. Any idea why this would be?
  13. Yea I think I can just use the picture, let me make sure that I have it right. Referring to the first picture in the set, the red wire is going from the 5v pin on the board to the transistor to the 5v pin on the female usb connector (assuming the female USB connector is not upside down), and the black wire (the one NOT soldered to the usb connection on the board) is soldered to the green pin on the LED. The only thing that I could not tell was which order the transistors are in. Is the one on the closest to the USB connector the PNP or the NPN? Let me know if I got anything wrong.
  14. Good to hear that you got it working. I am ordering the transistors and I can't find the 2N2919A NPN transistor anywhere. Do you know of a place that has them? edit: Nevermind, it was a typo. It should be a 2N2219A NPN. It was correct on your flickr page.
  15. use SUMO or MultiISO. They both have several security based distros you can choose from at boot time.
  16. You could include in the code a block that will monitor battery level and then when it gets low, disallow control from users and drive itself to a charging station until the level got back up. Then it would return control to the people in line.
  17. Did you take the 5v from somewhere on the circuit board, or did you piggyback directly from the USB cable? Is it possible that the owl needs a higher amperage to run?
  18. I think the pinout of the RGB LED is 1 - cathode (red) 2 - common anode 3 - cathode (blue) 4 - cathode (green) Please correct me if I am wrong, but could I take an NPN transistor and connect the collector to the 5v pin on USB and the emitter to the 5v pin on the owl and the base to pins 1, 3, and 4 of the LED? The base may need a resistor to allow saturation, but since the same amount of voltage will always be put out by those 3 pins combined, would that work?
  19. Ok, I got everything. I took apart the notifier and noticed that it was much smaller than I thought and it was much lighter than I thought. My camera is a crappy Sony CyberShot, so I couldn't get a good picture of the circuit board, but I noticed that it only has 1 LED that is a 4 pin SMT RGB. It looks very similar to this: http://www.ferret.com.au/c/Manuco-Electron...SMT-LED-n690032 It doesn't have a traditional IC controller, it has the same thing calculators do. I don't know what they are called, but it looks like a black dot of silicon. Other than that, it is just resistors and a capacitor or two. Its all surface mount, which means that soldering and desoldering is going to be a pain. I plugged it in and tried it out, and it seemed to work fine. I'm going to do more research on the use of transistors tomorrow (finished exams finally, so I have tons of free time now!) and see if I can find the pinout of the exact LED they use and take some voltage levels.
  20. Awesome, I got my ThinkGeek order as well. However, it's at my house in Florida, and I have finals this week so I won't be down there until Friday to see it. I haven't received my email notifier yet either.
  21. $223?? Wow lol. While we are waiting for the stuff to come in, I came across this page on SparkFun: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/tutorial_...utorials_id=119 It is a really cool tutorial on how to use a relay to control large (120v) devices. With those schematics, you could control something much larger than a USB owl (email activated blender? lol). We just need this, only smaller. They do use a transistor to help control the relay and even provide schematics for a control board for the relay, which is nice. Can we do the same thing as in the tutorial only with components rated at smaller voltages?
  22. That's awesome, thanks a lot. I have experience soldering, but not as much experience with knowing which components to use. I will be ordering the owl and notifier very soon (like tomorrow). I guess we will not know more until we can see the inside of the notifier. Let me know when you get yours.
  23. The USB notifier was what I was leaning towards, but I have no idea what the circuit in there looks like. Would I be able to desolder an LED and use that point to power a relay which would connect the continuous 5v from USB to the owl?
  24. I was wondering whether or not it was possible to do that, but I guess it won't be that simple.
  25. So you may have seen this on thinkgeek: http://www.thinkgeek.com/geektoys/japanfan/a620/ It is a USB owl that just runs off the 5v USB provides. I was going to get one for my friend, but thought that only moving around randomly was pretty lame, it needed some modification. So I thought it would be cool to make it start to move whenever you get a new email. At least then it has some functionality. My friend would get a little more use of it and I would get to try a neat project. I need some help decided which route to take to make this happen. The first option is to buy one of these: http://usb.brando.com.hk/prod_detail.php?prod_id=00681 It already has software that works with most major email clients and turns on lights. I figured that I could buy one, take it apart and desolder the LED(s) and install a DC to DC converter to bump the voltage up to 5v, then connect the 5v pin from the owl to it. I noticed that the light pulses when you get a new email, but I think a DC to DC converter would stabilize the voltage automatically right? Then my second option was to use an arduino micro and solder the 5v USB pin to an output on it and interface with it via a python script that I found online here: http://successlessness.blogspot.com/2008/0...-some-code.html My final option is to just remake the original project that that code was made for here: http://successlessness.blogspot.com/2007/0...l-notifier.html But since this is just to drive an LED, I would need a DC to DC converter here also. So that is what I am trying to decide, obviously the cheaper the better but I also want to make sure that it is not too hard (I am only going to order 1, so I can't make any mistakes). Which do you all think would be the best to try, and would these even work? thanks, and sorry this post is so long.
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