RChadwick

The problem with software password managers, is they will always be vulnerable to malicious software. The easiest and most secure hardware password manager is the Mooltipass. Open source, debugged over the past few years, plugins for Chrome and Firefox, emulates a keyboard for compatible with all USB-equipped devices, and can work standalone with it's internal display. I have no idea how to hack this remotely.

I'm guessing, just like the Raspberry Pi, it all depends on which card. The one with the best specs or the largest capacity is not always the most reliable.

From a theoretical point of view, you should definitely use a powered hub. From a practical perspective, it depends. If you use a hub that uses very little power on it's own, and plug in only 2 devices that themselves draw little current, and you give the nano 2 amps or more, you might manage it without problems.

If it was mine, I'd resolder it, and use a very fine strand as a jumper over the trace. If needed, a small xacto knife will remove the coating from the remaining trace. As long as the mounting pads (The ones that will suffer the most stress) are strong, and you don't make too much of a mess on the lifted pad, things could be fixed 100%. I'd also use some IPA to remove any flux around the repair. Flux, and especially impurities it might attract, can affect RF. The tricky parts will be to get it straight, and to solder it well, but quickly. High heat has a way of lifting pads. After the repair, I'd carefully drill out the hole in the plastic so that the antenna doesn't stop at the plastic. That was one of the first mods I made, and have been very happy with it.

When writing scripts, it's sometimes very handy to see what the output would be without actually happening. Does anyone know of a program that would interpret all keystrokes (Including Shift, CTRL, ALT, F1, F2, etc.) and simply display them in a window?

How are you powering the Nano? Can you try powering it from another source?

Have you tried another '2.1A' power supply? From my experience, it's extremely common for USB Power packs, and wall chargers to put out MUCH less than what they claim, especially if it's an off-brand.

As it's obviously not a good idea to just remove power from the Nano, I'm curious if there was made an accommodation at a hardware level to shut down the Nano? Perhaps hitting the reset button? Maybe some unmarked solder pads that could be used to initiate a shutdown? Could the reset button be programmed so a quick push will initiate a shutdown?

I added 3 small heatsinks too, as well as adding a 47uF cap across +5v to help compensate for bad power. Don't really know if the heatsinks were needed (IR camera only showed under 110 degrees idle), but it was worth it to me for peace of mind. Still have issues, but they don't seem hardware-related.

I'm interested in getting information from the OS into the Ducky, so I can make script decisions based on the OS, available hardware, etc. It should be easy to pipe the console to a serial port. Has anyone done this? Is there room in flash to add this to the firmware?

I just got my ducky, and I realize it's a keyboard only, with no storage. All my ideas require storage. Short of a hub and, ducky, and flash drive, is there a way to use the ducky's MicroSD for storage?

This is definitely a hardware issue. In most cases, it's not a matter of more 'power'. All USB devices are designed to run from 5V. Some might happen to work at less. If you're lucky, it might work. However, you could buy 100 USB drives from the same manufacturer, and 60 might work fine at a lower voltage, 30 might work sometimes, and 10 might not work at all. From an Electronic point of view, picking a drive that works is a real half-ass solution that may stop working at any time. So, USB drives expect a full 5V. The problem is that the Pineapple will not be able to supply a full 5V to USB drives unless if it's getting at least 7-8V in. If you power the Pineapple from a USB port, it's getting 5.5V at MOST. If you do this, your USB Flash drives are running on 3 or 4 volts, and as low as that is, it will fluctuate under load, temperature, etc. That means that, even if it works today, it can corrupt data under load, or reset the device.It's a problem waiting to happen. The solution? If you want your Pineapple to actually work with USB drives or other USB devices in any kind of consistent way: 1) Run the Pineapple from 7-12V 2) Run the Pineapple from 5V, but use a powered USB Hub for any devices plugged into the Pineapple. Firmware is not a fix. Picking the right USB drive is not a real fix (Even if it seems like it works)

Also, the purpose of the hub is to make sure a full 5V gets to USB devices plugged into the Pineapple, so you'd want to plug the hub into the Pineapple, not the Pineapple into the hub. When the hub is plugged into the Pineapple, then plug your USB drives into the hub. Or, just power the Pineapple with 12V.

Don't count out power as the problem. At least as important as current, make sure whatever power supply you're using puts out 7 to 12 VOLTS.

Just a few observations.... 1) It would be fair to say that a Pineapple is not in the same class as an IPhone. An IPhone is a consumer product. If my overpriced IPhone doesn't work properly, I'll politely complain, and expect a solution. A pineapple is more specialized, requires some skill to use, and is not for everybody. 2) While you may have paid for the hardware, the software is a separate, open source product. 3) It's nice and generous thing that some people are willing to help people for free with open source software. 4) Constantly saying a 'Product' is bad, defective, etc. , more than actually trying to find a solution yourself, is likely not the smartest way to encourage people to help you. There may be situations where acting like a bully is required, and might get results. This doesn't seem like one of those situations. Just my 2 cents.